Preparation
We’re all searching for ways to keep our complexion radiant and bright, especially as we age. Doing so involves combatting dullness, a broad skin-related term that may actually be the sum of other issues.
Shereene Idriss, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of PillowTalkDerm, defines dullness as an uneven complexion with brown patches, discoloration, or pigmentation. According to Marisa Garshick, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology, this condition occurs when cell turnover slows (this happens when we age!), resulting in a build-up of skill cells on the surface of our faces and reduced radiance. Other causes, she says, include sun damage, environmental stressors, and dehydration.
Conditions such as melasma, a hormonal form of pigmentation that worsens with stress, sun exposure, heat, and thyroid disorders, may also be to blame, adds Dr. Idriss.
If you want to brighten your skin, exfoliants are best. These actives eliminate dead skin cells and leave a brighter, more radiant complexion in their wake, Dr. Garshick explains. You can look to physical exfoliants to mechanically buff away these cells or to chemical iterations, such as glycolic and salicylic acid, to weaken the bonds between the dead skin cells and slough them away.
Exfoliants aren’t your only option: Both Dr. Idriss and Dr. Garshick say to scan products for the following brightening, pigmentation-combatting ingredients while you shop:
Vitamin CRetinoidsKojic acidAlpha arbutinTranexamic acidLactic acidLicorice root extractNiacinamideHyaluronic acidSPF
Dr. Garshick warns against using too many exfoliating products at the same time, which can be counterproductive and contribute to irritation and redness. Dina Strachan, MD, a New York City-based board-certified dermatologist and Skin Of Color Society (SOCS) member, agrees and recommends searching for the root cause of your dullness before reaching for exfoliating products that might cause irritation.
For example, if dullness is caused by seborrheic dermatitis, she says, ingredients like retinoids and salicylic and glycolic acids may actually cause a flare. “It’s like putting alcohol on intact skin versus scratched skin. It burns,” she says.
If you’re hoping to brighten a dull complexion, stay away from products or ingredients that might strip your skin of natural oils. Dr. Garshick notes that harsh soaps or abrasive scrubs can use micro-tears in the skin barrier and lead to dryness, resulting in a less radiant complexion overall.
Luckily, it’s fairly easy to incorporate a brightening skin care product into your routine. Don’t know where to start? We asked dermatologists to share the dullness-fighting formulas they personally recommend to their patients.
