Preparation
Chemical exfoliants are composed of acids that, when applied topically, reveal a smoother, clearer complexion over time. Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Jessica Chwalek explains that these acids help loosen the bonds between skin cells, which results in shedding; certain types, she adds, can even help fade dark spots and clear acne. They’re relatively easy to spot on an ingredient list. Dr. Dendy Engelman of the Shafer Clinic says that the most common chemical exfoliants are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which include glycolic, mandelic, and lactic acids, and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), like salicylic acid. Dr. Chwalek cites polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), which include gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, as yet another chemical exfoliant to be on the lookout for.
As for their formulations? Chemical exfoliants regularly appear in cleansers, toners, pads, or peels. And while they are often advertised for general use, both dermatologists say that those with sensitive skin should be extra careful when incorporating a product with these ingredients into their routines. “Chemical exfoliants can cause skin irritation and over-drying on sensitive skin types or if they are not used properly,” says Dr. Engelman. “Be sure to do a patch test before using, carefully follow directions, and stop use if you have a negative reaction.”
Dr. Chwalek agrees, adding that lactic acid, mandelic acid, and PHAs are often better suited for delicate complexions; they are less drying and more gentle. Their intensity can also be altered or increased by any companion products, which is why Dr. Chwalek advises against using retinol or acne-fighting ingredients like benzoyl peroxide alongside chemical exfoliants (as a general rule of thumb, exfoliate in the morning and turn to those other hero ingredients at night). If you do apply an exfoliant at the start of your day, don’t forget sunscreen, since all forms of chemical exfoliants make your visage more susceptible to UV rays. With all of these key application tips in mind, we asked Dr. Chwalek and Dr. Engelman which chemical-based exfoliants they recommend to their patients. Scroll down to see their picks—along with some of our personal favorites—and discover the correct product for you.
Two-Step Peel Chemical Exfoliant: Dr. Dennis Gross “Alpha Beta” Universal Peel PadChemical Exfoliant for Acne-Prone Skin: Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid ExfoliantChemical Exfoliant for Sensitive Skin: Pixi Beauty Glow TonicHigh-Concentration Chemical Exfoliant: Drunk Elephant “T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial” AHA+BHA MaskExfoliating Moisturizer: SkinCeuticals “Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight” Cream
